GENERAL TIPS/IMPORTANT INFORMATION

A few tips of important info I think is helpful to making your trip to Japan seamless. 
Airports - Tokyo has two major airports; Haneda and Narita. If you’re staying in central Tokyo try and get a flight into Haneda as it’s about 20-30 minutes into the city with a taxi or Uber. Narita is about an hour by express train to Shibuya Station is kind of a pain to get to and from.

Transit Card (Suica) - will be your MVP asset in Japan. On the “wallet” app on your iPhone click the plus + icon top right, then Transit Card, then Sucia. Top it up with about 2,000-3,000 Japanese Yen using your Apple Pay.
It’s a basic pre-paid transit card. You can tap on and off all public transport, taxis and pay cashless for items at most places such as convenience stores (konbinis as they’re known in Japan) and vending machines. Great card to save on high overseas bank charges for small purchases. FYI you will still need to book a proper ticket for Shinkansen train fares. 

Cash - Japan is a cash society. Always have cash on you. A lot of establishments, especially small, hole in the wall places will only take cash. When you’re in smaller villages - especially after dark - absolutely make sure you have enough cash. Once at a dinner with a large group of friends we didn’t have enough cash to pay for dinner and the only ATM in town was located inside the post office which was closed! 

Tip: You can always find an ATM inside a convenience store.

Tipping - isn’t common in Japan. If you want to tip, make it explicit when you pay the bill otherwise you might find a very honest restaurant worker chasing you down the street to return your change. 

E-Sim/Wifi - I recommend the E-Sim Airalo from the App Store. So much easier than getting a pocket wifi portal and cheaper than using your existing mobile overseas. 

Book in Advance - Where possible book everything in advance to avoid disappointment. Restaurants, tickets to galleries, shows, exhibitions and long train trips (don’t bother with the JR rail pass; it’s cheaper to buy individual tickets where you need to go). I’ll note in the specific recommendations if you have to book. Ask your hotel to book for you if you get stuck.

Trains - Book long haul trips in advance and make sure you get seating otherwise you’ll end up standing in the toilet section for ages with your bags which is no beuno. The ticket machines at the train station can be a bit overwhelming so I always recommend going direct to the ticket counter and booking in person; they’re used to tourists, all speak English and can help with any concerns/questions - especially helping you on where you need to find your platform. As mentioned above don’t bother with JR rail pass, cheaper to book individual trips as you go. 

Opening Hours - Most shops don’t open til 11am, quirkier more niche places even later. Annoyingly most coffee shops also don’t open til much later either. Check google maps for opening hours for everything to be safe. 

Uber - If you’re not fluent in Japanese it’s better to order Ubers as you can enter your exact address into the app and save yourself and the driver a lot of hassle when you get picked up. Most of the time a taxi will rock up anyway as they’re connected to Uber. 

Luup - Japan equivalent of Citibike, Lime Scooters etc. Download the app and you can hire an e-bike or scooter which is often faster or cheaper than the train or taxi to get places within Tokyo.  

Rubbish Bins - Are not commonplace in Japan. Being responsible for your own rubbish (and most importantly recycling) is your burden and something which is taken very seriously. You’re expected to take your waste home and take care of it yourself. Big tourist areas such as Harajuku and Shibuya will have a few bins and if you’re sneaky you can pop into a convenience store (konbini) to dispose of your items - they’re usually hidden near the straws, utensils and coffee cups.

Etiquette - Talking loudly, listening to videos or music without headphones on the train is bad manners. Same goes for eating/drinking on the train unless you’re seated on a long haul train ride with your own tray table. 
Eating outside on the street is also frowned upon. 
It’s customary to take your shoes off  when you enter someone’s home, some restaurants and all temples/shrines. In-door slippers are usually provided. Take note of separate slippers for restrooms. General rule of thumb if you don’t see signage: Tatami mats = take off your shoes, Historial wooden floors = take off your shoes, Someone’s home = take off your shoes.

What to pack (Tokyo specific)
The shoulder seasons of Spring and Autumn are the best weather in Tokyo.
Tokyo is a great city to walk around in so make sure you have comfortable footwear. As mentioned above rubbish bins are scarce so a bag which you can easily carry your trash in til you get back to your hotel to dispose of is also helpful. Some establishments err on the side of dressy or have dress codes (ie no shorts, sandals or athleisure) I will note these on the Restaurant/Bar guide. 

Winter (Fuyu) December 1 - February 28
Winter in Tokyo is one of the best times of the year, the sun is usually shining and the days are crisp but not too bone chillingly cold. Every few years Tokyo might see a few days of snow if you’re lucky. Essential packing items are a warm puffer jacket & thermals (Uniqlo Heat Tech are my go-tos) if you’re unable to get any before you leave they’re in abundance when you land. I usually wear my normal clothes with thermals underneath. If you have a beanie and gloves it can’t hurt to pack as well. 

Spring (Haru) March 1 - May 31
Early spring is still pretty cold and late spring you’ll be cruising around in a t-shirt. Definitely take a warm jacket for the cooler days or evenings. Spring is famously busy in Tokyo due to the Cherry Blossom season, expect to walk around alot in search of the elusive blooms. Hanami (the custom of enjoying the flowers) means a lot of people will take to the parks with blankets to enjoy picnics. FYI shoes off when sitting on the picnic blanket!

Summer (Natsu) June 1 - August 31
The worst time of the year to be in Tokyo, most people try to escape the city if they can. Humidity is high, it rains A LOT and it’s swelteringly hot. Pack breezy, loose fitting clothing like linens and shoes which won’t get ruined if there is downpour. You will be sweating ! Umbrella’s also handy due to the heavy, frequent rain and to protect yourself from the sun. 

Autumn (Aki) September 1 - November 30
Much like spring this is another great time of the year weather wise. September can still get pretty humid so pack light weight clothing, the weather can change quite suddenly in Japan though so if you’re going for a decent stint make sure you cover your bases with some warm options as well. 

Helpful Phrases:
Never once heard a single person say sayonara in all my time in Japan.
The most helpful phrase you’ll learn is ‘daijobudesu’, pronounced ‘die joe boo des’ it’s a pretty broad term but basically means I’m all good thanks / no worries / it’s okay / don’t worry… If someone asks if you want a receipt: “daijobudesu”, would you like a plastic bag for your shopping: “daijobudesu”, sorry I bumped into you: “daijobudesu”, please wait a moment: “daijubudesu”... You get the idea..

Google translate is the best option for most situations but like most foreign countries the effort is really appreciated if you try your best with the local tongue. Who knows you might get a local say back to you ‘Nihongo jozudesu’ which means you speak Japanese well! But it’s also kind of a backhanded sarcastic dig because locals will enthusiastically say it back to you simply for saying Konichiwa 

Here are some other helpful phrases / words: 

*You can piece together some of these to help with ordering a drink for example:

‘Sumimasen, aka wine onegaishimasu’ - Excuse me, red wine please

Konichiwa - Hello

Konbanwa - Good evening

Ohayo - Good morning 

Genkidesu ka - How are you? 

Mata-ne - See you / Bye

Ja-ne - Bye

Daijobudesu - No problem / it’s fine / I’m okay / Don’t mention it / All good / Don’t worry

Arigato - Thank you 

Domo Arigato Gozaimasu - Thank you very much

Sumimasen - sorry / excuse me

Chotto matte - One moment

O kaikei kudasai - May I please pay the bill

Onegaishimasu - Please

Kippu - ticket

Toiretto - toilet

Biru - beer

Wine - wine

Aka - red

Shiro - white 

Mizu - water

Konbini - Convenience Store

Namae wa? - What is your name?

Watashi wa <insert your name>
desu - I am <name>

Izakaya - translates to ‘stay-drink-place’ usually for a traditional Japanese restaurant/bar

Yokocho - means alleyway or backstreets but mostly refers to an alleyway with many bars and restaurants

Ryokan - a traditional Japanese style inn or accommodation

Onsen - baths filled with natural hot spring water, typically located in rural, mountainous regions

Sento - baths filled with regular heated tap water not from a natural source, more common in the cities.

Showa - the period post WWII in Japan during the reign of Emperor Hirohito (1926-1989) during Japan’s insane economic growth, several places in this guide I might refer to as having a ‘Showa era’ aesthetic which is usually a charming mix of Japanese and Western elements which is uniquely distinctive to this era. 

Medical / Emergency / Medications:
Tokyo Medical Centre - The only English friendly doctor’s clinic in Tokyo. Ask for Ivor Cammack he’s British / Australian who was super helpful when we had a few emergencies.

FYI - its hard to get normal painkillers in Japan without a script so bring your paracetamol or ibuprofen from home if you think you’ll need it while you’re away. Same goes for Cold & Flu medicine, cannot recommend this enough especially if you’re heading to the snow and get sick because Japanese over the counter medicine is weak AF. On that note do NOT bring Cold & Flu medicine into Japan which has pseudoephedrine or codeine in it as they’re illegal and you can get into a lot of hot water (ie detained) if you get caught with it at the airport. 

ADHD medications are also banned substances and illegal in Japan and can get you arrested. 

Who to Follow on instagram:

Tokyo Weekender
Lisa Knight
Peter Sayn
Sabukaru
Sugalenin
For parties:
Sante
Al Jones
Rainbow Disco Club

Shit List:
You can’t trust someone who says everything is amazing - so I think it’s important to call out the stuff which should be avoided. Obviously not everything in a city is perfect but loads of these places pop up on heaps of other Must-Do’s in Tokyo.

Gotemba Premium Outlet - Its an absolute pain in the ass to get to. If you have limited time in Tokyo and love shopping don’t waste a whole day coming out here. 

DonQuijote - Its a heaving tourist trap and most of the stuff is junk - if it’s specific things like beauty products or electronics you can go to a million other places where you don’t feel like you’re going to get claustrophobia.

Go Karting - The Go-Karting in costumes is perfect for people who love tourist traps and are missing any sense of self-respect. It’s lame as shit - wouldn’t be caught dead doing it.  

Gonpachi - The Kill Bill restaurant. Terrible. Massive tourist trap. They play hideous Top 40 music super loud and the food sucks. If you have any lists / Tokyo guides sent to you, and they include the Kill Bill restaurant, then you know that guide is shit and whoever sent it to you either hates themselves or doesn’t have any taste, but probably both!

GoldenGai - Around 200 little bars all crammed across 6 narrow alleyways. It’s OK for 1 drink if you’re in the area (go to Albatross, ‘Deathmatch in Hell’ - great name for a bar!,  La Jetée, or Open Book. ) But it’s extremely touristy and quite dorky - and it’s too hard to find the secret good little bars (you need passwords). Even the cool ones that you need passwords for are still kinda boring. Try a night out in Shimokitazawa instead. Or - go to Piano bar & Grandfathers in Shibuya. 

Ahiru - Who has the guts to put one of the best natural wine bars in Tokyo on the shit list? I do! There’s a line 30-40 minutes long before it opens, and then you can never get in. Have tried to go 10 times, never can get in. It’s just not worth it - so don’t plan your day around it.

Shibuya Yokocho - It’s fun to walk through it when you’re walking from Harajuku to Shibuya at night - but the food is bad and the energy is a bit off. Big tourist trap.

Animal Cafes - Sure they look cute as hell, and I’ll admit I have been guilty of going when I first came to Japan 10 years ago but I guarantee you will leave feeling sad and riddled with guilt. Obviously goes without saying that they’re not fun for the poor animals.  

PLACES TO VISIT OUTSIDE OF TOKYO

Sure you could do what every single other person who visits Japan does and go to Kyoto and Osaka OR you could visit some less beaten paths where there is far less or virtually no tourists and where your tourist dollars actually make a difference and will ensure that some of these unique places and communities will be around for years to come. 

Most of these places are a 1-4 hour commute from Tokyo. I’ve listed the top day trips first followed by places which you can also do day trips from Tokyo but I would recommend staying overnight as there is so much to see and do and the commute is a little longer.

All of these places can be reached via train however I have noted a few places which I would recommend driving to. Driving in Japan is incredibly safe, all you need is your passport and an international drivers license to hire a car. The first time we started hiring cars to drive around I felt like we had peeled back a layer of this country which we would never normally see had we caught the train and been limited by places closer to train lines. Taxis in rural parts of Japan are rarer so you might be able to get a taxi from the train station to your location but struggle getting one back.
Day Trips From Tokyo
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Mountain veg udon noodles at the top of Mt Takao
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Symphonic Sculpture at Hakone Open Air Museum
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The one and only Fuji-San from Lake Kawaguchiko
Mount Takao
Hiking up Mount Takao is a nature day trip, located about 50 minutes outside of Central Tokyo and considered to be a good mountain for beginners due to all the trails being paved.
On the way up you’ll pass a number of special shrines (look out for Yakuoin Temple & Izuna Gongen-do Shrine) as well as spots to grab a snack (I highly recommend the mountain vegetable udon if you see it). There is a monkey zoo / park about midway up but I’d give it a wide berth as the monkey enclosures are overcrowded, dirty and quite upsetting.
Mount Takao is best enjoyed during Cherry Blossom season (spring) or Autumn when the leaves are bright red and yellow. 

Yokohama
About a 45 min train ride from Shibuya Station. Yokohama is a great day trip from Tokyo to sample all the culinary delights of their local Chinatown (the largest Chinatown in all of Japan)
Other highlights include the waterfront area of Minato Mirai 21 - for an epic view of the harbour go up the Cosmo Clock 21 Ferris Wheel.
The kooky Cup Noodle Museum looks like a modern art gallery from the outside but is in fact as the title suggests a museum to ramen where you can learn about the history of noodles and even make your own. 

Hakone
Further south from Yokohama (about an hour and a half from Central Tokyo) nestled in the foothills of Mount Fuji is Hakone which has an excellent mix of art, culture, adventure and relaxation. One of my favourite museums in Japan; Hakone Open Air Museum is a 2 minute walk from the train station. Other highlights of Hakone include: Lake Ashi where you can catch glimpses of Mt Fuji via a Pirate Ship Cruise.
There are several onsens in Hakone; if you’re going for a day trip (most accommodations will have onsens for their guests) however there are a few public options for day trippers: Tenzan Onsen or for something a bit more kitsch and family friendly there is Hakone Kowakien Yunessun. If you happen to stay overnight in Hakone I would recommend the following two accommodations: Hakone Honbako for a more modern twist or Fujiya for a traditional stay. Fujiya is a renowned hotel that has boasted hosting famous guests from Archduke Franz Ferndinand to the Beatles.
About a 40 minute drive from Hakone in Odawara, Kanagawa is the architectural gem that is Enoura Observatory showing off the works of artist Horishi Sugimoto.
Reservations are required to visit, and tickets cost 3,300 yen (about $30 AUD). The observatory can be accessed via a shuttle from Nebukawa Station on the JR Tokaido Main Line. Exploring the site typically takes 1-2 hours

Mt Fuji / Lake Kawaguchiko
Personally I prefer a day trip to Mt Fuji. Some people will plan a whole trip around visiting Mt Fuji or Lake Kawaguchiko only to get there on a bad weather day and not see the mountain at all due to poor visibility. Fuji-san.info will provide 10 day forecasts with ratings from 1 (poor) to 10 (excellent) and Yamanashi Kankou website has live cameras with vantage points all around the area you can check for views of the mountain. 

Hiring bikes at Fujisan Bike and riding around Lake Kawaguchiko is a fun activity in this area. The ride to Chureito Pagoda isn’t too far if you want to see one of the most recognisable views of Japan. The Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway is worth checking out to get a great view of the Lake and Mountain. For day trippers I really enjoyed Yurari Onsen (might need to get a taxi here) for beautiful outdoor onsens overlooking the Mountain. 

The only time we’ve stayed overnight in Mount Fuji was during an event in the area so accommodations were sold out or limited - we stayed in an Airbnb (wouldn’t recommend) however I do have a wishlist of accommodations
I’ve heard great things about:
Fuji Kawaguchiko Onsen Konansou Hotel
Kozantei Ubuya Ryokan
Rakuyu (next to the Panoramic Ropeway)

OVERNIGHT TRIPS FROM TOKYO

The following locations are  2 hours+ outside of Tokyo, still could do a day trip but I’d highly recommend staying overnight minimum 1 night in these spots. 
IZU PENINSULA
Izu Peninsula 

Further south from Yokohama and Hakone in the Shizuoka Prefecture is the Izu Peninsula which I could go on about for days, we travelled here many times for weekend getaways out of the city and its easily one of my favourite parts of Japan. There are resort towns which were once wealthy playgrounds and our now charming 80s time capsules, stunning beaches and dramatic coastlines, countless onsens, mountainous villages, waterfalls, hiking trails and some of the weirdest museums we’ve ever been to (and we made a point of seeking these places out in Japan)
Personally I’d recommend driving down the Izu Peninsula as you can unlock so many more interesting spots - especially rurally.
I’ve often joked the only stars I like to sleep under are 5 stars but I had a ball camping throughout this region on one of our many trips. We hired an Overland Camper, its run by a fellow Aussie called Luke who’s been living in Japan for many years - tell him Poppy and Harro sent you!
Rainbow Disco Club is a forest festival held usually in April. If you enjoy music festivals this is definitely one worth adding to your itinerary. 

The New Akao Hotel
Nestled into the cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the resort town of Atami. The New Akao is a charming retro Showa era hotel (perfect if you like the vibe of the Hatoya - listed further down)

Hihokan Adult Museum
A very short walk from the New Akao Hotel is a 18++ kooky, sexual themed Adult Museum which is definitely worth checking out if you’re in Atami.

Hatoya Hotel in Ito
Is an utterly perfect Showa era hotel about 10 minutes from the Ito train station. (Not to be confused with the Sun Hatoya Hotel nearby) booking this hotel is a little difficult but well worth the effort - I booked through Rurubu Travel (Japanese equivalent of booking.com - just turn your translator on with your web browser). Probably my favourite accommodation we ever stayed in while in Japan, all guests pad around in their Yukata (cotton robes) and slippers. There is a karaoke bar, ramen restaurant, massive dining hall, onsen and a kitschy retro games room in the basement. The decor is everything I love about Showa era Japan - its giving The Shining in all the best ways. 

The Layer Ito
If I wasn’t staying at the Hatoya in Ito I would stay here at the best Airbnb in Ito - The Layer, a mid century villa started by our friend Hillary which was just featured in Conde Nast Traveller’s best Airbnb stays in Japan.  

Maboroshi Hakurankai Museum
About 10 minutes in a cab from central Ito is without a doubt the weirdest museum we’ve ever set foot in. Totally unhinged exploration of Japanese subcultures and oddities. We left with more questions than answers. 10/10 and would 1000% go back. NOT KID FRIENDLY.

The Weird Museum for Boys and Girls
After going to Maboroshi this museum doesn’t quite hold a candle in weirdness in comparison but it’s cool to check out both if you’re in Ito. Despite the name, probably wouldn’t bring kids here either. 

Izu Shaboten Zoo
Generally haven’t had the best experiences with zoos in Japan but this was definitely one of the better ones. Lots of animals roaming free around the park like capybaras (you can feed and pat them), spider monkeys and peacocks. Strange perk is that dogs are allowed in this zoo (in prams or on their lead)

Kawazu Seven Waterfalls
Stunning trail tracking a crystal clear riverbed with walkways along and over the waterfalls. Best accessed by car.

O-Daru Falls (onsen)
Short walk from the start of the Seven Waterfalls trail is a mixed gender public onsen - pack your own swimwear for this onsen as it’s outdoors and non gender segregated. Several stone onsen pools of varying heat overlooking a blasting ice cold waterfall. Probably one of my favourite onsen experiences. 

Kawa Zoo
Also located between Kawazu Seven Waterfalls and O-Daru Falls is Kawa Zoo, basically just a super cute frog museum / zoo.

Shirahama Beach
Sprawling white sand beach overlooking the mountains near Shimoda. 

Soulbar Tosaya
Located on the coastal town of Shimoda is a vibey, kooky little cocktail bar in an otherwise sleepy fishing village. If you’re in the area recommend popping in here for a drink.

Izu Gokurakuen 
Best accessed by a car is Izu Gokurakuen “The World of the Afterlife Museum”, a fascinating museum run by an elderly couple who will teach you about various levels of Buddhist hell you’ll end up in for misbehaving. The different levels of hell are large scale dioramas built by the family and are creepy AF. Most of the museum is in Japanese so you’ll need your translator app to read the plaques. In the carpark of the museum is a sex museum also run by the couple. Bit spooky for young kids I’d say. 

Asaba Ryokan 
Also located in central Izu is Asaba Ryokan, I haven’t had the pleasure of staying here but know people who have (and absolutely loved it).
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The iconic Showa era Hatoya Hotel in Ito
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Waking up in an Overland Camper in Izu
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Gokurakuen museum - run by a lovely elderly couple, one of several cursed museums on the Izu Peninsula
NOZAWA ONSEN
Nozawa Onsen

Hands down our favourite ski village in Japan. I’m perpetually trying to convince people to skip Niseko (pain in the ass to get to and around once you’re there, has zero Japanese culture and is basically a mini Australia) and book a trip to Nozawa Onsen instead.
Nozawa is tiny onsen village dating back to the 8th century in Nagano Prefecture about 1.5-2 hours out of Tokyo, super convenient to get to and from - no need for a car. Everything in the village is walking distance and you can ski on and off the mountain and walk directly into the super charming town which has 13 public onsen baths. 

On the 15th January every year is the Nozawa Dosojin Matsuri (Nozawa Fire Festival)
Villagers gather to construct a massive wooden shrine, which is then set ablaze in a dramatic ceremony to pray for good fortune, health and fertility in the coming year. Like all matsuri festivals it's a vibrant celebration filled with chanting, sake and community spirit.

Hire your gear from Mt’Dock opposite the ski lifts, they have the convenience of letting you leave it here at the end of every day. 

Shizen Nozawa
Ask for Rowie and say Poppy & Harro sent you - fellow Aussie Rowie runs Shizen, a charming and affordable accommodation in the center of town best for larger groups which also has a yoga studio. 

Ryokan Sakaya 
Large ryokan on the main street of Nozawa. 

Tokiwaya Ryokan
Over 370 year old ryokan in central Nozawa with a variety of its own onsen baths, a ramen restaurant and izakaya.

New Corazon
Just a few doors down from Mt’Dock at the bottom of the ski lifts is this cute, casual little diner - can’t go past the delicious mountain vegetable udon or hearty curry dishes here. 

Schuss Nozawa
Best smash burgers in Nozawa. Just opposite the kid’s ski area before you hit the bottom of the mountain. 

Jiyu Gekijo
Vibey little izakaya where you can roast your own skewered meat and veg over charcoal.

Guruguru
Newly opened cool natural wine bar in the middle of town.

Furusato-no-yu
Day use onsen which is one of the very few in the village you have to pay to use (the others are free but have a donation box at the entrance you’re encouraged to use for their upkeep) Furusato-no-yu is more elevated with several different baths plus amenities to use post soak.

Jigokudani Yaen-Koen
Nagano’s world famous monkey park where the wild snow monkeys bathe in the natural hot springs (a learned behaviour of watching the local Japanese folks do it for hundreds of years!) is about a 45 minute drive from Nozawa Onsen. 
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Nozawa Onsen from the top
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PL Adventure waistbag
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Walking around the village of Nozawa which dates back to the 8th Century
NIKKO
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Nikko in Autumn
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Visiting miniature Egypt at Tobu World Square in Nikko
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Shinkyo Bridge
Nikko

A small village in Tochigi Prefecture about 2.5 hours north of Tokyo via train. I’d recommend coming here during the autumn to experience the changing of the seasons and the bright red foliage.

Toshugu Shrine
UNESCO World Heritage site - an opulent 17th century shrine honoring the first shogun. 

Shinkyo Bridge
One of Japan’s most famous bridges, it was built in the 1600s and originally reserved only for shoguns and royal envoys. 

Kegon Falls
Located in Nikko National Park is the Kegon waterfalls. Handful of cute noodle restaurants dotted around this area. 

Senjogahara Plateau Nature Trail
A moderate 6-kilometer walk through marshlands with gorgeous views of the surrounding area.

Ritz Carlton Nikko
V close to Kegon Falls - pricey but stunning (the spa at this hotel looks absolutely insane). We stayed at a ryokan (we made the mistake of staying a bit too far away) however if I had the budget would stay here. We had a splurge dinner at the Ritz Carlton LakeHouse restaurant and a pre dinner drink at their lounge beforehand which was lovely. FYI they have a smart casual dress code so keep that in mind if you plan to come here after a day of hiking. 

Tobu World Square
Outdoor theme park featuring 1:25 scale models of some of the world’s most iconic landmarks. Where else can you get a picture next to New York’s Twin Towers (never forget) and Egypt’s sphinx? Tobu World Square is where!
NIIGATA
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Coloured coffin sleeping arrangements at Dream House
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Unique toilet at Tunnel of Light at Kiyotsu Gorge
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The Last Classroom (abandoned school in Niigata), part of the Echigo-Tsumari Art Field project
Niigata

About a 4 hour drive from Tokyo or approx 3.5 hour train ride from the city. Would highly recommend driving to Niigata as most of the attractions in this region looked difficult to access without a car.

Niigata is home to the Echigo-Tsumari Art Field, part of the Echigo-Tsumari Triennial which has been held every 3 years since 2000. There are approximately 200 different works scattered amongst this region which makes it one of the largest art festivals in the world and a pioneer at activating rural, seasonal areas which aren’t visited as much by tourists outside their high seasons. Niigata is known for its ski villages, we visited in the peak of summer and although it was incredibly hot we got lucky with sunny weather and managed to find several riverbeds to take dips in during our drives to each of the art attractions. I’d recommend coming to Niigata for art lovers and to experience the nature of the region. 

We went specifically for James Turrell’s House of Light and Marina Abramovic’s Dream House, both which I booked about 9 months prior. If you’re planning on visiting for these specific sites you’ll need to book your dates well in advance. Links below.

Museum on Echigo-Tsumari (MonET) Satoyama Museum of Contemporary Art
Contemporary art museum featuring various permanent and interchanging exhibitions. Recommend coming here first to purchase a Echigo-Tsumari passport booklet which can be your ticket entry to the other Echigo-Tsumari attractions dotted around Niigata.
Be sure to check out the onsen inside this museum, it features a lovely modern outdoor area you can sunbathe nude.

House of Light by James Turrell
Breathtaking accommodation designed in collaboration with light artist James Turrell, the space features a sliding roof that comes off  for a 1 and a half hour light show in the lead up to sunset and again for sunrise, the lightshow to accompany the changing night sky was one of the most moving art pieces I’ve ever experienced. The accommodation has a kitchenette where you can prepare your own dinner and breakfast, an onsen with its own light show and several areas (including under the sliding roof) where you and your group can sleep on the traditional tatami mats. You can book the whole space or just one room but there is the risk you will have to share with another group if your group doesn’t fill the whole space (this is what we did and although the family we shared with were lovely in retrospect we should have just paid a bit extra and booked the whole space to ourselves) 
Book House of Light here

Dream House by Marina Abramovic
Admittedly didn’t look into Dream House when I booked it asides from knowing it was by Marina Abramovic, so was in for the shock of a lifetime when we arrived at a creepy 100 year old home tucked away on a remote rural track and found out we had to sleep in coffins with sharp stone pillows to rest our heads on whilst wearing custom pyjamas with magnets inside them to spur on a dream like state with the intention that you wake up a record your dreams in your ‘Dream Book’ (hidden inside a slot within the coffin) which is your contribution to the ongoing art project that is Dream House. You couldn’t pay me a million dollars to spend another night in this house but it was easily one of the most memorable experiences we ever had in Japan and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to try something outside their comfort zone or is a fan of Marina Abramovic. 
Book Dream House here

Matsunoyama Onsen
Short distance from Dream House is the famous Matsunoyama Onsen.

Kiyotsu Gorge / Tunnel of Light
One of Japan’s 3 major gorges Kitotsu Gorge is both a natural attraction and as of 2018 in collaboration with the Echigo-Tsumari Art Field now also an art site through Chinese architectural firm Ma Yansong’s conversion of the tunnel which runs alongside the gorge that you can walk through viewing various installations overlooking the gorge and river below. Tickets to enter the tunnel at the entry.


The Last Classroom Tokamachi
Another Echigo-Tsumari art site, The Last Classroom is an abandoned rural school which both serves as a macabre reminder of Japan’s dwindling population and an equally creepy exhibition space. 

Hoshitouge Terraced Rice Fields 
Picturesque tiered rice paddy fields, beautiful area to drive around the winding roads. 

Matsuro Mari Swimming Area
In the hotter months would recommend coming here for a swim - an area of the river where the rapids are less intense. Mini waterfalls and various areas to park up for a picnic and have a dip. Parking lot and public restroom just opposite. 

Ryokan Senkyo in Gunma
Not technically in Niigata but I wanted to add this ryokan as a recommended accommodation to stay in if you happen to take the long drive back from Niigata to Tokyo. Gunma is on the way and this was one of the cutest Ryokans we’ve ever stayed in. Cute pastel interiors (couldn’t get enough of the bubblegum pink carpets) and an onsen which overlooked the nearby riverbed. 

Hoshi Onsen Chojukan
Also en route from Niigata back to Tokyo is Hoshi Onsen which comes recommended by a dear friend of mine who rates this as one of their favourite onsens / ryokans in Japan.